Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon

Four Seasons Tenure

• Since 2022
• First Four Seasons Assignment: Current

Employment History

• Epic Sana Marques Hotel, Lisbon; SeaMe Group, Lisbon; Vinificando, Lisbon; Ler Devagar, Lisbon

Education

• Food Engineering, Universidade Técnica de Lisboa; Certificates, Level 2 & Level 3, Wine & Spirit Education Trust

Birthplace

• Lisbon, Portugal

Languages Spoken

• Portuguese, English

Home may be where the heart is, but for David Lopes, it also has the wine. “Portuguese wine never gets old for me,” says the Sommelier, who oversees the all-local wine list at CURA, the signature dining experience of Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon. “There are 40 wine regions here, every one of them different, and I can tell you what winemakers do with each of the 200-plus grapes grown across the country.”

But isn’t working with Portuguese wine alone limiting? “Not at all. I’m really in my comfort zone here.”

Indeed, CURA’s wine collection, like Lopes’ focus, pairs exquisitely with the exuberantly local, seasonal cuisine of Chef de Cuisine Pedro Pena Bastos. Distinct from those more celebrated wine countries, the winemakers of Portugal are known for creating blends, sometimes mixing five, six, or even seven grapes. “Wine as a science came really late to Portugal, so what vineyards had to build on were the plantings left by older generations of producers.”

Pairing complex blends with dishes from the kitchen is “the fun part” of Lopes’ job, he says, noting Bastos’ unique way of cooking with “out-of-the-box” ingredients sourced from farmers and fishers or foraged by the kitchen team. When a new dish is proposed, the Sommelier and Chef sit down together and sample each element before it is composed. The process can be tricky and challenging.

“The last one we did had grilled green asparagus, which is bitter and raw with a metallic taste.” Solution? “I was thinking about a fresh rosé, but we finalized with an oaky, fruity Chardonnay.”

Lopes endeavors connect directly with wine producers, the better to keep them up to date on the styles and vinifications he is looking for. On personal visits, winemakers typically have selections waiting for him to sample, and he’ll sometimes squeeze in a visit to the vineyard. But mostly it’s about keeping in contact and maintaining good relations. “I can drive across the country in two days, meeting with producers in different regions the whole way. I really believe in developing strong relationships with vendors.”

While many local producers have adapted foreign grapes over the last couple of decades, Lopes is particularly keen on bringing genuine Portuguese grapes to the table at CURA. He names, for instance, the Arinto grown in Bucelas, a region located just outside of Lisbon that has been turning out wine since Roman times. “It produces one of the freshest white wines I’ve ever tasted, with lots of layers. With the right grapes in the right region and respect for nature, I believe it epitomizes what Portuguese wines can be.”

Lisboan by birth, Lopes is the progeny of a technician and a seamstress, both of who insisted he go to college. “I was lucky to study food engineering and was always intrigued by courses about the culture of wine production and winemaking.” He held restaurant jobs in the city while earning certification as a sommelier, something his employers enthusiastically supported.

Lopes found his way to CURA in 2022 when Hotel management found him online and reached out to chat. The opportunity to work with Bastos sealed the deal. “The Chef, our Restaurant Manager, and I all think alike. We give more attention to our team’s attitude than knowledge, because knowledge can be taught.”

There were also the pleasures of a small restaurant. The average guest spends 2.5 hours at a table at CURA, offering Lopes plenty of time to get to know them. “The dining scene has really taken off as foreign travelers have discovered Lisbon, yet most of our guests don’t know much about Portuguese wines. It’s really interesting for me to discover their preferences and find a wine that will reward them.”

His turn at CURA is his first with a hotel restaurant – or, as he quickly corrects, “a restaurant within a hotel.” It is really the best of both worlds, he adds. “We have our own street entrance, as well as the support of a Four Seasons Hotel.”